A few weeks ago, I solicited advice from the wise contributors to this blog regarding what kind of bike I should get for my commute. I promised to post again when I had a new ride, and here it is.
I live in Baltimore, and when I need to go to the D.C. area, I ride about three miles to Penn Station, where I catch the MARC train. My last bike was stolen from the train station after I left it locked to a lamp post with a cable lock. The bike racks were full, as they always are when I get to the station, and the diameter of the lamp posts is too big for a U-type lock.
It's OK -- I never really liked that bike, and I've had it for about eight years. So I was looking forward to getting a new one, but I wanted to be careful this time to get the right one. Or the right two -- one idea was to get a "beater" bike to ride to the train station, and a "good" bike for recreation. Of course, that would mean buying, maintaining and storing two bikes instead of one, and maybe having to ride a clunker on my commute.
I decided against the two-bike solution after I discovered a more secure type of lock that would work with the train station lamp posts. And the lock manufacturer offers a one-year warranty that says they will replace a bike that's stolen by breaking or picking their lock. You have to do some paperwork to qualify for that, which I did.
Another factor in deciding to go the one-bike route was that I didn't feel I needed a super-expensive bike. After asking around and doing some preliminary research, it looked like I'd have a wide selection of bikes I'd be completely happy with in the $500-$800 range. A more serious cyclist might spend thousands on a bike that he or she would NOT want to leave at the train station all day, but that's not me. Losing a bike in my price range certainly wouldn't make me happy, but when I considered the lock warranty and all the other factors, I thought this was the better way to go for me.
Shopping was fun. There's some relatively new technology out there that I hadn't seen before. Enclosed gears are getting more and more common, along with shifters that don't require derailleurs. These developments should pave the way for making bikes with drive shafts rather than chains more available in the U.S. We're not there yet, though -- I couldn't find a drive shaft bike for a test ride. I've had chain drive and derailleur gears for almost as long as I can remember, but I won't shed a tear if that system is replaced with one that's cleaner, sturdier, more weatherproof, and requires less maintenance.
The big difference I noticed in the marketplace are all of the bikes marketed as "commuter," "transportation," "comfort," or "lifestyle" bikes. These bikes aren't intended for racing or any activity with "extreme" in front of it. I have my doubts about a lot of the "comfort" and "lifestyle" bikes. The ones I saw were offered at the low end of the price spectrum, and consequently were outfitted with low-end components. I'm not sure if sitting straight up on a great big seat and struggling up a hill with only three gears and a cheap shifter would be comfortable, or suit my lifestyle. This might be the next generation of bikes that will end up gathering dust in people's basements and garages. The "commuter" or "transportation" bikes, on the other hand, seem like a great idea. There are some very high-quality offerings in these categories, some with the enclosed hubs and easy-to-use shifters, many already outfitted with fenders, chain guard, rear rack for carrying things, and built-in lights.
There were a few features I wanted that ruled out many of those bikes, though. I wanted the larger size wheels (700c), front shocks, and a frame geometry that would have me leaning forward. In the end, I chose a pretty conventional hybrid bike, the Specialized Crosstrail Sport. Top picture is how it came from the store. The only customization I had done at the store was to have the quick-release wheel spindles replaced by spindles that require an allen wrench, to deter thieves. Second photo shows the bike with all the accessories I added for commuting: rear rack (which also serves as a fender and provides a place to attach my commuting pannier), rear-mounted kickstand (it really, really annoys me when my bike won't stand up), Zefal spy mirror (doesn't stick out) and front and rear lights.
The last photo shows my new bike's first day at the train station, shackled up like Houdini. It's too bad that's necessary, but at least everything was still there when I came back at the end of the day.
So those were the choices I made, and I'm pretty thrilled with the result. If you're looking for a new bike, your needs, preferences, and choices will likely be different, but I'll throw out a few things I learned that might help you in any case:
- Don't just go to the closest bike shop and feel you have to choose from what they have in the store. Most dealers only represent a few manufacturers. After doing a lot of research online, I knew I wanted to look at the Specialized brand, and I found their local dealer.
- While you're on the web, try to zero in on the exact models you think would suit you. Manufacturers offer groups or "families" of bikes that are very similar to each other, often with the exact same frame. They'll typically offer three or four models with prices $100 or so apart. As you step up in price, you'll have better-quality components -- gears, shifters, brakes, etc. Your dealer is not going to have all of those choices in stock, but they should be willing to get the model you want to see without obligating you to buy it. My dealer had no problem with that.
- Definitely ride before you buy. The most expensive bike out there is no good if it doesn't fit and feel right to you.
- Once you find what you want, it IS a good idea to buy from a dealer that's as close as possible. Most dealers offer free adjustments for a year, and you might want to take advantage of that.
- For bike accessories, it pays to shop around. Some items were about the same price wherever I looked, but I saved $40 on my new chain lock by shopping.
- Register your new bike with the National Bike Registry. If it's stolen and recovered, it can be returned to you. This also fulfills a requirement to be eligible for a replacement bike under lock manufacturers' warranties.
So that's my report! Thanks again to everyone that offered advice -- that helped a lot.
Joe Chapline is web manager for Arlington County Commuter Services
Thanks for the tip on the enclosed gear hub. I love that. My 3-speed is a bit inadequate but so reliable. I will have to switch it out.
Posted by: David | August 29, 2008 at 01:17 PM